Discuss Quooker replace tap-and-twist PCB in the DIY Plumbing Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

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I'm working on a Quooker Flex tap with an unreliable tap-and-twist steam control. I think its the little PCB in the tap head. I've got a replacement but I'm unsure of the process for removing and replacing the PCB. It is sandwiched between the brass core of the tap and the stainless case. It looks like the core will need to be removed to gain access to the PCB. Does anyone know if this is the case and if so how to remove the core. Is it threaded or pressed in? Are special tools required? I can post images if required.

Any advice appreciated.
 
Yes, they were happy to supply the part but said it was one repair that they didn't have written instructions for. Maybe its considered too tricky for an owner repair? I have many years engineering experience so feel confident, it's just the sequence of disassembly I want to get right.
 
Yes, they were happy to supply the part but said it was one repair that they didn't have written instructions for. Maybe its considered too tricky for an owner repair? I have many years engineering experience so feel confident, it's just the sequence of disassembly I want to get right.
Did you ever work out how to dismantle the top part of the tap?
 
Yes, they were happy to supply the part but said it was one repair that they didn't have written instructions for. Maybe its considered too tricky for an owner repair? I have many years engineering experience so feel confident, it's just the sequence of disassembly I want to get right.
Hi
Did you ever work out how to remove the tap and twist ring and access the PCB?
 
Did either of you solve this? I have the same issue
Hi
I was able to work out how to remove the "tap and twist" ring (it unscrews the opposite way to normal screw thread).

I'm still puzzled as to how to separate the spout and the valve.

The PCB, of course, is sandwiched in between.

Perhaps our engineer friend, Franklin J Bean, managed to solve the problem?
 
I have the Fusion tap, and the ring doesnt seem to unscrew, at least not with hand grip
Mine is fusion square.

I held the chrome valve cover in a vice and unscrewed the ring with a wrench. I took great care, using cloths to make sure I didn't damage the chrome. Gentle pressure to begin with.

The valve is easy to remove. Undo the nuts at the bottom. Make sure you release the cable from it's groove first!

Separating the top part of the brass valve and the spout remains a mystery to me. There doesn't appear to be a grub screw or anything like that. I suspect it is a push fit and designed so that it can't easily be separated. Understandable when you are dealing with boiling water!

If you can find a way to do that I'd be grateful if you could share the solution.

Good luck!
 
Mine is fusion square.

I held the chrome valve cover in a vice and unscrewed the ring with a wrench. I took great care, using cloths to make sure I didn't damage the chrome. Gentle pressure to begin with.

The valve is easy to remove. Undo the nuts at the bottom. Make sure you release the cable from it's groove first!

Separating the top part of the brass valve and the spout remains a mystery to me. There doesn't appear to be a grub screw or anything like that. I suspect it is a push fit and designed so that it can't easily be separated. Understandable when you are dealing with boiling water!

If you can find a way to do that I'd be grateful if you could share the solution.

Good luck!

I have a Fusion flex with a push-turn knob that was hard to push due to 5 years of goo building up around the moving parts.

To lift the knob off, there is a small hole on the back side just below the push-turn knob. Inside there is a little plastic catch lever that can be pushed with a small rod like a flat head screw driver.
I held pressure on the lever while lifting and twisting the knob.
The twisting resulted in breaking a tiny piece of plastic holding one of two metal pins and in hindsight I think I should just have lifted the knob without twisting.
Anyway, I was able to clean the moving parts with a damp cloth and assemble the tap again, ignoring the broken pin-holder (as there was still an intact pin in place). The knob glides easily and still works. Phew!

PS I never saw the PCB or LED inside it...
 

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