Cistern taking ages to fill - B&Q unit - with picture

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Cistern taking ages to fill - B&Q unit - with picture

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rthomas_uk

Hi all,

I've got a cistern that was part of a suite bought from B&Q about 4 years ago. As of last night, the cistern has started taking an absolute age to fill.

I've managed to take the push button out and lift the lid off, nothing immediately stood out as broken but obviously something is. I've included the attached pic, circled in red is where the water is coming from. It's a high pressure hiss, not the waterfall I'd expect from a filling tank.

FYI - I removed the top and the lug from the the cylinder just above the red circle to see if I could spot anything, it's not missing or anything...

Appreciate any help or advice...

All the best,
Rich

p.s. yes, I did crack the ring around the pushbutton :(

IMAG0055.jpg
 
I've replaced 4 of these exact ones this week nasty little things
 
Replace the fill valve, as simple as that. I never repair them for what they cost it just isn't worth it....
 
exactly the make i took out yesterday for the exact same reason, there will be a split in the washer. replaced it with a fluidmaster.
 
Is it a Siamp? Their favourite error setting is a 5 million year fill time. As said replace.

Incidentally I needed a 3/8" Siamp ages ago because it was a tiny tight cistern and I feared any other 3/8 valve might not fit and be a wasted trip.

The merchant wanted £35 for it. So it was a wasted trip anyway.
 
Thanks for the quick replies all.

When you say replace, is this something I can get from a local plumbpoint or something? Or am I better off in B&Q?
 
That's a Plumbsure toilet with Siamp flush and fill valve. The flush valve is good, but the Siamp fill valve is tat. Replace it with a new Fluidmaster from Screwfix as buying and messing about with the diaphragm washer isn't worth it.
 
something like this?

Fluidmaster Bottom Entry Fill Valve UK ½" | NoLinkingToThis
 
system3 said:
That's a Plumbsure toilet with Siamp flush and fill valve. The flush valve is good, but the Siamp fill valve is tat. Replace it with a new Fluidmaster from Screwfix as buying and messing about with the diaphragm washer isn't worth it.
Click to expand...

Lol, I promise I posted my link to screfix before you said that! :D
 
Fluidmasters are the best! Never had any problems to date with them
 
http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/fluidmaster-bottom-entry-fill-valve-uk/84007;jsessionid=Lv14QQ3BKVcGpdxzZnGppTQ9RZ6dpjT285DyMzQvpv1X0cg6GVtB!1508804874

this look OK? Tried posting the link just now but it's not showing...
 
Koogatubac said:
Fluidmasters are the best! Never had any problems to date with them
Click to expand...

I'd agree but there are a few negative comments about these in the last few days, still the best though.

Everyone thinks it is just a bad batch.
 
i've only had one that was duff(not originally fitted by me) just swapped it for a new one and job's a goodun
 
Thanks for the link, that was the page I tried posting but failed to for some reason.

That pic looks fairly straight forward to fit, but the one that's in the cistern now has the fitting housed in plastic. Have you any advice for removing and replacing? Obviously knock the iso. valve off but does it just slip off, are there clips, screws, etc?
 
rthomas_uk said:
Thanks for the link, that was the page I tried posting but failed to for some reason.

That pic looks fairly straight forward to fit, but the one that's in the cistern now has the fitting housed in plastic. Have you any advice for removing and replacing? Obviously knock the iso. valve off but does it just slip off, are there clips, screws, etc?
Click to expand...
Turn off the iso, undo the tap connector to the fill valve. Undo the back nut to the fill valve and lift it out. Replace fill valve in same sequence but in reverse.

There are full easy to follow instructions in the box, that is why I'm giving you advice on how to do it as you'd read about anyway!
 
When you remove fill valve if there seems to be sealant/grit round the hole then rub the area with an abrasive strip and then clean with some tissue. Run your finger over it and it should feel clean and smooth. Otherwise the new washer can fail to make proper seal. If it still feels uneven or coarse a little finger's worth of LSX or silicone (if the latter give 15 mins to develop askin over before filling) spread over washer should do the trick.

If tap connector is brass, prize fibre washer out with fingernail or little flathead screwdriver. Clean with abrasive strip and put on a new one. If it's a flexi/push fit tap connector it will have a rubber washer. If it looks in good nick it might re-seal, if not it will need replacing.

Tighten tap connector to valve thread before fully tightening valve backnut. This is because the washer to thread needs a more precisely lined connection than the valve washer to cistern.

Do the valve backnut up until tight by hand and then give a 1/4-1/2 turn with grips.
 
secret squirrel said:
I'd agree but there are a few negative comments about these in the last few days, still the best though.

Everyone thinks it is just a bad batch.
Click to expand...

Hmm... Would be interesting to read these faults as ive never had any problem.

And yeah, u want to keep the water in the cistern when changing, keeps you on your toes ;)
 
Koogatubac said:
Hmm... Would be interesting to read these faults as ive never had any problem.

And yeah, u want to keep the water in the cistern when changing, keeps you on your toes ;)
Click to expand...

System 3 put up a post a couple of days ago, I put up a post a couple of days b4 that about one of them, search fluidmaster and it should pop up,

Leave the cistern full and leave the iso valve open for extra fun, certainly make you work quicker......

NO DONT DO THAT
 
For extra fun and games, shall I turn the pressure up at the stopcock?
 
I'll try and get this done tomorrow. I'll post pics when I'm done and providing I haven't flooded the house!
 
although changing a float valve is not one of the more challenging jobs, there could be complications,
the new valve thread might be a different length there might be no play on the pipe etc.
It all depends on what you feel confident with,
you could turn of the supply then undo the fitting on the vale to remove the washer, take it to your local merchant and get a spare for about £2 refit the new one no need for any tools.
 
Simon F said:
you could turn of the supply then undo the fitting on the vale to remove the washer, take it to your local merchant and get a spare for about £2 refit the new one no need for any tools.
Click to expand...
The things I like about the Siamp FLUSH VALVE is that it's height adjustable and also can be changed with a twist and click without removing the valve seal or the cistern.
 
system3 said:
The things I like about the Siamp FLUSH VALVE is that it's height adjustable and also can be changed with a twist and click without removing the valve seal or the cistern.
Click to expand...

Yes, I carry the cable operated SIAMP flush valve, so when any SIAMP fails I just slot that one in 2 mins. Works on hideaway cisterns and close couple alike.

Some bathrooms you just don't want to be knelt on the floor for 45mins taking the cistern off.
 
as everyone has said pro 45B fluidmaster get the brass shank dont bother getting plastic version!
 
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